Ming style & horse-face skirts

The mamianqun, or horse-face skirt, is the Ming piece many people now wear every day.

Ming style & horse-face skirts
EraMing, 1368 to 1644
Key pieceHorse-face skirt
ShapeFlat panels, pleated sides
Classic fabricWoven gold brocade

Wear a horse-face skirt in three steps

1

Find the flat panels

One waistband carries two overlapping skirt pieces. They make a flat face front and back, with pleats at both hips. Center one face on your body.

2

Wrap and tie high

Wrap the band around you, bring the ties round and knot them above the navel. The hem should just clear your shoes.

3

Add the right top

Try a stand-collar ao jacket in cool weather or a plain shirt in summer. Wide pipa sleeves and a long pifeng coat dress it up.

Flat in front, pleated at the sides, alive when you walk.

What to look for

选Woven pattern over printed. Flip it: woven designs show thread on the back.
选Bands at the knee and hem woven to fit, with motifs that line up.
选Buy by skirt length. Ties adjust the waist, but nothing adjusts the length.
选Check the fiber. Many are polyester, which is fine if the listing says so.

Ming style & horse-face skirts

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Good to know

What is a horse-face skirt (mamianqun)?

A mamianqun is a Chinese horse-face skirt from the Ming dynasty, with flat panels front and back and pleats at the sides. Mamian, horse face, is the old name for the flat panel.

Why was the Dior horse-face skirt controversial?

In 2022 a Dior skirt looked very close to a mamianqun, and Chinese students protested in Paris over how it was presented. The dispute brought the skirt wide attention abroad.

Can you wear a mamianqun every day?

Yes. Many people pair one with a T-shirt or sweater. Pick lighter fabric for daily wear, since brocade is warm and heavy, and steam the pleats rather than pressing them.

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