Shirts

A Chinese linen shirt: band collar, frog buttons, and cloth that softens with every wash.

Made fromLinen, hemp or ramie

CollarBand, no fold

Fastens withFrog or shell buttons

Best forHot, humid days

Three fronts to know

Opens straight down the middle. This is the easiest cut, and it layers well over a tee.

The opening curves from the collar to the right underarm. You know this line from the qipao.

Buttons stop at the chest and you pull it on over your head. It feels closest to a tee.

A linen shirt should look lived in.

选Read the fiber label. 'Linen look' often means polyester.

选Compare chest and shoulder in inches. Sizes made for Asian markets often run small.

选Tug a frog button gently. It should be stitched on, not glued.

选Small slubs in the weave are normal. Holes and pulled threads are not.

Hand-picked pieces are on the way.

Does a linen shirt shrink in the wash?

Yes, a little, mostly in the first wash. Use cold water, skip the hot dryer, and pull the seams straight while it is damp.

What is a frog button?

A knot of braided cord that fastens through a cord loop. In Chinese it is pankou. Tailors shape them into plain knots, flowers or butterflies.

How do you keep linen from wrinkling?

You can't, fully. Hang it while damp and steam it if you want it crisp. Most people who love linen let the soft creases stay.