Dresses

A linen dress in a Chinese cut: easy waist, band collar, cool in the heat.

FabricLinen, ramie or blends

ShapeStraight, A-line or tunic

DetailsFrog buttons, side slits

SeasonLate spring to early fall

Know the cloth before the cut

Made from flax. It drapes softly, creases softly and shows a little slub in the weave.

A plant fiber China has woven for thousands of years. Crisper than linen, cool to the touch, with a slight shine.

Hand-woven ramie from places like Wanzai in Jiangxi and Longchang in Sichuan. Very airy and firm to the touch.

Summer cloth: how China's south kept cool before air conditioning.

选Hold it to the light. A sheer dress needs a slip.

选Check bust, waist, hip and length from the shoulder.

选Ramie creases sharper than linen. Make sure you like that.

选Look for side-seam pockets. A loose dress hides them well.

Hand-picked pieces are on the way.

Is ramie the same as linen?

No. Ramie comes from a plant in the nettle family, and linen comes from flax. Ramie feels crisper and shines a little more.

Do you need a slip under a linen dress?

Often, yes, for white and cream. Darker colors and heavier weaves usually don't need one.

How do you wash a linen dress?

Use a cold, gentle cycle with the dress inside out. Put it in a mesh bag if it has frog buttons, then hang it damp.